Day 1: Machete Pelao - Wiwa Camp (17 km)
Got up at 5 am, hopped around in a 4x4 for a couple of hourse, arrived in Machete Pelao in time for breakfast with yummy Colombian hot chocolate. Started hike around 9.30 am in a blistering heat (40+ degrees), climbing some seriously steep hills. Drinking lots of water. Seven hours of hiking. Almost died. But not really.
Woke up at 5.21 am, no alarm needed. So far zero mosquito bites. 'Only' five hours of hiking today. Our first encounter with a traditional village, where our indiginous guide Sawakin explains the meaning behind the construction patterns. Knee deep river crossing. Time for relaxing and writing by the water in the afternoon.
Day 3: Camp Teyuna Paraiso - Camp Ricardito (20 km)
Found the Lost City today! Started the hike at 5 am, in the dark, so we would be there first. And we were. Completed all 1200 steps without music, just counting to a 100, over and over again. Loved the circular remnants of buildings and the significance attached to them. Vibrant green colours all over the place and plenty of time to explore on our own. I felt an incredible sense of calm looking up at the trees and the awaking skies. There was something about that place, the heart of the world, that I still can't quite put my finger on. Get caught in a torrential downpour on the way back to camp. No time to take off shoes for river crossings. Fun times.
Lazy morning, slept in until 6 am. Everyone else is still asleep while Tobias and I are writing at the kitchen table. Leave for a little hike to a nearby waterfall with the other keeners of the group. Mindblowing floating session in the cold water, feeling incredibly centred yet confused. Breakfast. Hike. Camp Vista Hermosa is where we had lunch the first day but the view is still as breathtaking as when we were first here. We sit around a fire in the evening, watching the sunset and listening to Sawakin sing in his traditional language. I also get overcome with some unpleasant traveller's symptoms about which I will spare you the details. Let's just say I've had better nights with less frequent bathroom visits.
Best day of the entire trek. Hands down. We get off the beaten track, and every ridge brings a new vibrant green scenery, each time more spectacular than the one before. Juan Diego creates a path with his machete. We get welcomed into a Kogui village where the women have prepared lunch. Once again the keeners set off on an extra little hike to a nearby waterfall where we can swim. When clouds starts rolling in we head to the trucks that will take us back to Santa Marta. Bye Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, hasta luego.
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